Saturday, January 28, 2017

Spain: Terradets, Bruixes

infinite rock around Terradets
It started to rain everywhere, and we had a forced rest day where we spent 8 hrs in a cafe in Tremp, mostly binge watching streamable shit.  We discovered an abandoned railway stop with an awning to keep the tent dry. This has been a classic (sketchy) free camp spot for climbers for a long while.

Our next stop needed to be steep, because given another day it was still raining. We showed up at the Bruixes cave. My friend Lucas told me about this spot, one of the best for Tufa climbing in Spain. Many of the world class areas in Spain don't feel that unique for myself, being fortunate enough to live in Lander. If you visit Margalef, you'll encounter steep, powerful pocket climbing, or if you go to Siurana you get good edges and pockets, and technical face climbing. These styles are prevalent at wild iris and sinks, and while the walls in these classic Spanish areas are generally steeper and taller, I wasn't in the kind of shape to experience that difference, which really only becomes apparent on Grade 8 (13b and up) routes. What I really wanted to experience was tall endurance climbing on Mediterranean flowstone, something really special that climbers often need to travel great distances to find.  we weren't in shape for that either, but that didnt stop us from sampling some of the best 7as and bs at Bruixes.

Erik in awe at the living wall. We don't have alot of Tufastone in america, so for us Bruixes was really special. You pretty much have to climb 5.12 all day if you come here. The routes are typically 30-40m and don't let up at all, Tufas often give way to perfect sculpted edges and great vertical face climbing at the top of routes.
the cave at Bruixes. routes here basically start at 8b+
Many routes in spain with names along the lines of "fuck the system", maybe there's one here. anyway I share the sentiment thoroughly...
selfie on the approach. still feeling sick. 
we found free camping in an abandoned train station, where we pitched our 20€ Spanish tent. 

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