The Fins

Jonas Abdo before his send of Al's Diner. Photo: Angelo Roman

Fall was a short lived and feeble season this year. But I made the most of it in the Fins. This remote spot in Idaho has only one style. Vert Limestone. But damn is it good. This has got to be the best limestone sport climbing in America, at least if you like the angle. The quality matches the best stuff at the French Cattle Ranch in Ten Sleep, or the best at Wild iris, except that it is often 140-160 feet tall, with consistent difficulty and featuring throughout on the standout routes. The pockets are rimmed with flowstone, and it is uncommon to actually find a downpulling hold. What results is an incredible flow of dancing movements, with all manner of underclinging, sidepulling, step throughs and foot matches. What looks like a blank slab can become bouldery compression, and what looks like a dyno can be subdued calmly with balance and strength of mind. Everything places a high demand on finger strength and footwork. Some routes have just enough holds to be possible. Others allow for your choice of creative sequences. The moderate routes have some of the best flow I've ever experienced. A guy from Utah said "this is as close as it gets to skiing powder when youre rock climbing". I agree.

 I've known my friend Angelo since I was around 12 years old. We grew up bike racing together, and independently of each other became obsessed with climbing.  I met Jonas in the Fins. He grew up in Boise, and we instantly related based on a shared love of physics and rocks.

Photo Angelo Roman

I made a quick redpoint of Al's Diner. perhaps it's soft for tall folks, having several cruxes with long moves. I want to go back. This is a style where hard work during the projecting process really pays off. On technical vertical terrain, moves can feel impossible at first but then with a tiny change of footwork or a subtle hip twist the moves flow like butter. In the future if I want to test my limits I would love to do it in a place like this with elegant techy face climbing.

Photo Angelo Roman